E Cig Volts Watts oHms Amps


e cig volts watts ohms ampsUnderstanding how an E Cigs works, is more than simply the volts of your battery.

It’s about oHms, Watts, Amps AND Volts, plus, how they react to your device. The math may be confusing to some, but it’s important to understand the basics-
Although we can cheat a little by using charts.

ALL Delivery System Devices are assigned oHm ratings

The Formula is:
Watts = Volts X Volts / Ohms
Amps = Volts / Ohms

Here’s some in-depth information already written-

There are reasons one should understand the basics-

  • To know the correct resistance for your Delivery System purchase
  • To help find your sweet spot of vaping
  • To insure you don’t overpower and burn out the device

A Video explanation from VapePowered YouTube-
Their YouTube Channel

Some general guidelines-

  • Power (watts) is the intensity of the vape. 6-8 watts is the “sweet spot” for most vapers
  • Current (amps) is what can burn out atomizers. 1.5 – 2.0 amps is fine. 2.0+ amps is risky
  • The lower the resistance of your device, the faster it will drain the battery
  • The lower the resistance – The lower the volts
  • The higher the resistance – The higher the volts
  • For a 3.7 volt device use 1.8 oHm resistance

I thought this may be a useful- (OP-Unknown source)

At an experiential level- LOWER OHMS:

  • Will run hotter producing warmer vapor
  • Will create more vapor
  • Will produce more throat hit
  • Will affect the flavor produced, either by producing more or diminishing it.
  • Will drain your battery faster
  • Will go through e-liquid faster, which increases the likelihood of a dry hit, if  your e-cig can’t keep up with the rate of use

At an experiential level- HIGHER OHMS:

  • Will run a bit cooler, producing a cooler vapor
  • Will create less vapor
  • Will produce a smoother vape with less throat hit
  • Will affect the flavor produced, either amplifying or diminishing it, depending on the individual flavor.
  • Will allow your battery to last longer between charges
  • Will use less e-liquid

Everyone has different tastes and expectations.
Some may look for a warmer vape, or greater throat hit.
Some may want a mild, all round experience.
At times we want the ability for both, so it’s nice to have a few variations for any given device/s.

When ordering a new Delivery System – it’s best to get 2 variations.
If you’re ordering a Cartomizer, you wish to try a 2 oHm and a 1.8 oHm –
Just to see which one performs best for you.

If you own multiple E Cig devices, you may find one suits one better.
You will get to know your preferences by experimenting.

Here is an easy to follow Chart for those that don’t wish to use math-

Safe Vaping Power Chart

3.7 Volt E Cigs

Let’s look at an example from the chart above.
Follow the 3.75 volt column listed on top.

We can see that the safe resistance range is from 1.8 up to 3.5 oHms.
This may be true BUT on all 3.7 volt devices I’ve used, I find anything over 2 oHms produces insufficient levels of vapor and little satisfaction.

For my Silver Bullet ( a 3.7 volt Mod) I always use 1.8 oHm.

In some respects, a 3.7 volt device is simpler to work with.
You are given a voltage limit. Therefore, your only means of adjusting performance, comes down to delivery system ratings, or oHms.

Everyone has different tastes, so it’s impossible to give a single set of numbers to abide by.
E Liquid viscosity is a factor too, as Flavor/Taste alters at different outputs.
Some e liquids taste better at 4.5 or 5 volts.

One important point regarding 3.7 Volt devices.

Lower oHms will provide a better vape, in general, but lower oHms reduce your battery life.
This is ONE of the primary reasons for owning a larger style E Cig.
Perhaps a Tube Mod or a variable voltage device.
They take much larger batteries and allow for all day vaping without the need to recharge.

Variable Voltage E Cigs

Because we have a far greater range to work with, this allows for greater flexibility in determining what resistances we can try.
Look at the column showing 4.75 Volts.
The safe resistance range is 2.8 – 5.0 oHms.

I would recommend trying various settings with a 3.0 oHm device.

A good rule for experimenting with resistances is to use an Atomizer.
Grab yourself an i06 and double it as a dripping Atty or for testing various juices.
This way you’re not spending a lot on a Tank system like a Kanger. Once you know what range you like you can order more expensive delivery systems.
If you already own something like a Vivi Nova or Kanger ProTank you can simply buy a few coils at various resistances to experiment with. They’re very inexpensive. $3 at the most.

In general, for VV devices, I tend to stick with 3 oHm resistance.
But everyone needs to experiment to determine one’s preferences.

There are other handy charts here-

Here’s a great little program to use for all the specs.

I hope this has been helpful

Charles Chalfant Yates
Thanks for visiting The Table


  1. JT says


    Just thought I’d leave my feedback on a new device i assembled. I have been using a Kangertech Protank 3 with a Vision Spinner 2 battery and 1.5ohm dual coils, and while it was suitable, I wanted something better. So I purchased a Vamo V8 mod with Sony 18650, and a Kangertech Aerotank Turbo with two dual 1.8ohm coils. Running it at 22w, 4.4v, and 0.9ohm resistance is the best setup I’ve tried to date. Flavor is full and rich, lots of vapor, great throat hit and virtually no drag effort. Whole setup was under 130, very satisfied.

    • says

      Yeah, those higher watts tend to reveal more flavour.
      Pleased you found your go to device; takes a while sometimes.

      Appreciate your comments and sorry for the late reply. Been in and out of hospitals but now okay.

  2. Wendy says

    Thank you for your advice ..
    .4 volts seems to do the job, and the watts is set on 6.5. no burnt tast on those settings…The clearmizers Im using are 2.4 and 2.5 ohms. Honestly Im not sure how to read the calculator. Once again.. Thanks..

    • says


      Thanks for the email.

      Have a look at the chart again. Select your atomizer or coil ohms on the left hand side.
      Above is the Voltage.
      (The area shaded in green represents the safe zone)

      If I were using a 2.2ohm atty and I set my voltage at 4 volts my output wattage would be 7.27.
      Simply follow where the two variables meet.

      Let me know if that makes sense, okay?

  3. Wendy says

    I just purchased an Itaste v v battaery for my bc clearmiser, can you pls tell me the best settings to have the battery set to….as I have had a few burnt vapes…..
    Thanking you,

    • says


      Hello and thanks for stopping by.
      What settings have you been using and what (if you know) ohms and volts have you tried?
      Have you tried other clearomisers and if so what was the outcome?

      Also, what sort of e liquid are you vaping?

      Have you a good understanding of the relationship between volts and ohms?
      Check out the chart on this page.
      A common setting could be (purely subjective) a 2ohm coil or atomizer at around the 3.8-4 volt setting.

      You need to experiment with these settings as there are too many variables.
      The juice comes into play here too.

      It should be noted that many replacement coils can arrive doa.

      If you cannot rid the burnt taste I would try another delivery system or get some new replacement coils.
      BTW. Where did you buy the clearo’s from?
      Good luck and keep in touch, okay?

      • TacWA Gary, yes me again Pal says

        Wow, really cool to see this post still getting questions, and funny to see mine from Feb. and to know just how far I have come since then it’s my OCD in overdrive I believe and much good advice from Charles here for sure.
        When my email came in today and I see it’s one of Charles I get immediately happy, just love your posts Charles please never stop my friend.
        When I saw the issue Wendy is having with a BCC, I thought, Oh I have had that same issue and I have found a way to generally fix at least my problems for that issue so I don’t get that burnt taste that usually happened almost immediately after I replaced the coil and a refilling.
        First thing I know is once you have a burnt coil well it’s never going to un-burn itself, basically it’s ruined, I have not been able to figure out a way short of a complete rebuilding of the entire coil.
        But there is ways to not get that burnt taste right out the gate I’ve discovered, and it’s really easy to avoid.
        I was using, and still do on occasion, a Kanger mini pro with the replaceable coils and assuming Wendy is using something of the same a bottom coil clearomizer then their could be a number of issues and all I have found can be fixed.
        One of the issues I realized after experiencing that horrible burnt taste was a couple of things, and believe me these suggestion are based on my going through maybe 15-20 coils before I started to realize how I was messing things up so maybe I can be helpful and pass on what I have learned if that’s alright Charles certainly not meaning to be a wise guy, just like to help out Charles, hope it’s alright.
        If not then please just erase my post here, wouldn’t be offended at all..!
        The first thing that I realized I wasn’t doing correctly after replacing the coil was allowing enough time for the wicking to prime itself with the new juice and even though I always started at 3.8 volts I would fire the unit and puff puff burnt taste, well there was no juice on the wick so I was just burning the wicking almost immediately and once that happens there’s no going back you have to replace the coil.
        So what I started to do because I am just to impatient to wait for about 2 minutes, which is about how long it would take for the juice to absorb through the wick from the outside into the center of the coil where the juice is then heated, what I started doing was after filling the clearo with new juice and replacing my new coil is that I’d take the juice bottle and drop about two, maybe three little drops right down the chimney of the coil after I had screwed it on to the clearomizers base, so then it just runs straight down the chimney onto the coil and it’s then primed and ready to go so when you now fire it no burnt taste at all.
        The wick is wet and primed and ready to go.
        After that just take a few light pulls on your tank and the juice from the tank will be flowing great.
        There’s more that can be done like replacing the factory top wicking with a good piece of 1mm silica and throw the two tiny little strands of junk away and also rearranging the loops of the coil itself to perform better but that’s for another day.
        But priming is key to avoiding that dreaded burnt taste and then as Charles said it’s all about finding the sweet spot and starting at 3.8 volt I have found also is the starting point when starting with a juice and then depending on the juice it’s up from there and even occasionally down a notch.
        I hope that is helpful as it worked for me and I can’t remember the last time I had a burnt tasting coil, but know this it only takes one or two seconds of dry fire to burn that wick inside the coil and once it’s burnt it’s done.
        Miss your posts Charles, and it’s always great when I see one come across my email.
        Best to you my friend,

        • says


          Thank you for that, I’m sure Wendy and others will find it helpful.
          These are viable bullet points.

          Replacement coils for the Evod tanks I sometimes use have frequently arrived DOA.
          One or two in a 5 blister pack tend to taste burnt right out of the box too.

          When it comes to clear’s it’s important to try a few different brands/types.
          The Aspire line can be great too!

          Is there a decent B and M near you, Gary?
          Just curious.
          Take care,

  4. Gary says

    I just wanted to say Thank You for all the obvious hard work you have put into this site.
    It is something I just happened to stumble upon and not the site Stumble, just surfing looking for VV Watts info.
    I can’t believe all you have here and don’t really think I need to look any further absolutely a labor of love I think.
    Just wish you could tell me what would be a very good top line VV-W device for my first buy, not ready for a straight mechanical and have small PV like the MVP2 which is and was my first big other than ego style batt.
    Now want something with more watts and looked at many reviews and it’s just seems subjective to the reviewer.
    Almost bought the Lambo L Rider 6.0 but then saw a bad review by a guy I follow quit a bit due to his seemingly impartiality.
    Any help on this would be great but will understand if you pass.
    But the bottom line is Thank You for what you have here, wonderful.
    Gary Tacoma WA

    • says


      Firstly, thanks for the kind comments.
      Tacoma huh? My old stomping grounds……

      Most reviews are somewhat subjective and it’s NOT always easy selecting the right device.

      One of the first things you MUST consider (and explore) is delivery system choices, something that suits your style and requirements.
      You should experiment with what you have to see what you like.
      The MVP2 goes to 5 volts (& 11 watts) if I remember but it should suffice for this purpose.

      If you’re unable to get satisfaction from something like Cartos or Clearos you may have to look into RBA’s or even dripping Atomizers such as the affordable IKenvape i06’s.

      Lately, I’ve been using the Provari (absolutely superb but expensive) with 2.4 oHm Kanger Evod clearos running around 4.5 – 5 volts. Depending on e liquid. Which is a factor.

      We’ve been doing a lot of testing on devices lately and are coming up with a short list of “standards”-
      Quality devices that don’t generally fail and provide the necessary options for supporting a variety of delivery systems.

      Recently I got the Vamo V 5 and for the money I must say it’s a good solid unit.
      Some specs for you-

      •Built in OLED display showing menu, function and selection
      •Variable Wattage – can be adjustable from 3.0W to 15.0W (in .5W increments)
      •Variable Voltage – can be adjustable from 3.0V to 6.0V (in .1V increments)
      •Maximum current output: 5A
      •Reverse polarity protection
      •Check atomizer/clearomizer/cartomizer resistance(1.5-5.0ohm)
      •Thermal Monitoring
      •Time limit protection function
      •Bottom vent hole
      •510/eGo threading connector
      •Compatible with 510 and eGo threaded Atomizers/Clearomizers/Cartomizers
      •Can be powered by 1*18350 battery/2*18350 batteries/1*18650 battery

      I’m available to chat with you if you like.


  5. Patrick says

    Hi. Thanks for the info. I have a Xmax v2, and use a protank mini on it.

    I like to build my own coils. Using 30 gauge kanthal, I usually get around 2.6-3.1 ohms, depending on the wraps, etc.

    But because I vape mostly tobacco flavours, I find a better vape at higher watts, like around 9-11 watts, usually.

    • says


      Thanks for your comment.
      I really have to get back into making coils again.
      It’s hard to beat that level of performance, isn’t it?

      Happy you have a sweet spot that provides a decent vape.
      Take care and happy vaping!

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